Moccasin shoe



July 31, 1934- R. A. BUNKER 1,968,740

MOCCASIN SHOE Filed Aug.v 6, 1952 Patented July 31, 1934 TES* SPAT

, Application August 6, 1932, Serial No. 627,757

' 8 Claims. (Cl. 36-11) `.This invention relates to shoes of the moccasin type and to blanks for use in the` manufacture thereof. In such shoes, the usual lasting operations are inverted and the vamp and under por- 5j tion of the shoeis pulled forward and upward over the lower portion of the last. l

,1' `Itisthe` general object of my invention to providefan improved construction in a moccasin shoe by which a snug and comely fit in the'arch or lonshank portion` of the shoe is assured.

A further object is to provide an improved form of blank for luse in the manufacture of a moccasin shoe.

invention further relates to arrangements 15.- and `combinations of parts .which will be hereinafter` described and `more particularly `pointed out in theappended claims.

A A.. preferred `form of .the invention `the, drawing, in which u. -1 Y 203- -Fig. l-isa plan view of my improved blank;

` Fig. 2 is a bottom VView of theblankl, stitched together to form a vamp; l i .y

Fig. 3is a partial side elevation of the stitched vamp; Y

Fig. V4 is a` bottom View of amoccasin shoe having myimproved vamp applied thereto, and

Fig. 5 is a side elevation ofthe completed shoe Referring to thedra'wing, I have embodied myy invention in a low shoe ofthe moccasin type havspring" a vamp portion 10, quarters 11, an upper member 12 and a heel portion 13, all assembled in the finished shoe as indicated in Fig. 5 and preferably having an outer sole 15 secured thereto.

My invention relates particularly to the vamp 10 and to the blank from which the` vamp is produced. 'I'he blank B is shown in Fig. 1 and comprises a single piece of leather having a relatively wide main opening in the shank portion there- Aof, and having forwardly extending branch openings 21 and 22 in the ball portion thereof. The branch openings 21 and 22 communicate with the main or longitudinal openings 20 and diverge forwardly therefrom as clearly indicated in Fig. 1. The openings 21 and 22 are gradually contracted toward their forward and outer ends and each of these openings is preferably of a relatively narrow V shape. Some of the edges of the openings 20, 21 and 22 are. preferably slightly curved and the opposite edges of each opening are preferably slightly dissimilar.

In the form shown in the drawing, the edge of the main opening 20 is substantially straight 4f-dn its outer portion and convex in its inner poris shown in tion, whereas the opposite edge 31 of the opening-l 20 is shown as concave throughout. .1

The outer edge 32 of the branch opening 21 is shown as sharply convexand as forming a continuation of the edge 30 of the opening 20. v

The opposite edge 33 of the opening 2l is slightly concave, as is thecorresponding edge 34 of the branch opening 22, while the outer edge 35 of the opening 22 is shown as straight and as forming an` obtuse angle with the edge 3l of the opening 20.

When the opposite edges of the blank B are drawn together and stitched to form a vamp, the parts assume the relation shown in FigsLZ to 4, the vamp being dished upwardly at the edges as indicated in Figs. 2 and 3 and the branch-seam 40 forming a continuation of the longitudinal seam.4l, while the branch seam 42 is disposed at nearly a right angle thereto, the collective seams s having an irregular Y-shaped outline. Each branch opening 2l or 22 is of substantially less area than the main opening 20, and the branch seams 40 and 42 are of less length than themain` longitudinal seam 41.

When such a blank has been assembled'with the quarters 1l and heel portion 13, the assembled parts are placed on an inverted last and the heel portion 13 is tacked to thelast over a suitable inner heel piece 50. The partially assembled shoe is then drawn strongly forward over the last? and is pulled around the t-oe of the last and secured at the top of the toe and thereafter at the ball portion of the shoe. After the shoe is thus lasted, the upper or toe piece 12 is inserted and stitched to the edges of the vamp, and the outer sole is applied, thus completing the structure of the shoe.

It is found that a vamp formed as shown in the drawing possesses the great advantage of drawing in snugly against the sides of the last in the shank portion when thus stretched forwardly over the last, thus producing a smooth and wellfitting article of footwear.

In the manufacture of such moccasin shoes, this matter of securing a smooth t in the shank and arch portion of the shoe is a problem .which has caused much difficulty in manufacture and this problem is solved very effectively by the use of a blank such as is shown in Fig. 1, with the edges of the openings stitched together as shown in Figs. 2 and fl.

Having thus described my invention and the advantages thereof, I do not wish to be limited to the details herein disclosed, otherwise than as set forth in the claims, but what I claim is:-

` 1. A moccasin shoe having a vamp portion ENT oFFIcEI i provided with a longitudinal seam in the shank portion the end of which is. outwardly deflected in the ball portion of the shoe, and an outwardly extending branch searn in the ball portion, said branch seam joining the forward end of said longitudinal seam at its point of deflection and the collective seams presenting an irregular Y- shaped outline.

2. A moccasin shoe having a vamp portion provided with a longitudinal seam in the shank portion the end of which is outwardly deflected inl the ball portion of the shoe, and an outwardly extending branch seam in the ball portion, said branch seam joining the forward end of said 1ongitudinal seam at it spoint of deilection and being substantially equal in length to said forward end and the collective seams presenting an irregular Y-shaped outline.

3. A moccasin shoe having a vamp portion provided with a longitudinal seam in the shank portion the end of which is outwardly deected in the ball portion of the shoe, and an outwardly extending branch seam in the ball portion, said branch seam joining the forward end of said longitudinal seam at its point of deflection and the collective seams presenting an irregular Y-shaped outline, said longitudinal seam being slightly curved vand being produced by the joining of slightly dissimilar edge portions.

4. A moccasin shoe having a vamp portion provided with alongitudinal seam in the shank'portion the end of which is outwardly deilected in the ball portion of the shoe, and an outwardly extending branch seam in the ball portion, said branch seam joining the forward end of said longitudinal seam at its point of deection and the collective seams presenting an irregular Y- shaped outline, said longitudinal seam being slightly curvedand being produced by the joining of slightly dissimilar edge portions, said branch seam ybeing substantially perpendicular to said longitudinal seam.

5. A blank for the vamp of a moccasin shoe, said'blankr having a main opening at its rear edge *in the shank portion and said opening being extended forwardly and deflected outwardly in the ball portion of the blank, an outwardly extending vbranch opening in the ball portion of the blank joining the extension of said main opening at its point of deflection, said branch opening and extension being substantially equal in length and area.

6. A blank for the vamp of a moccasin shoe, said blank having a main opening at its rear edge in the shank portion and said opening being extended forwardly and deected outwardly in the ball portion of the blank, an outwardly extending branch opening in the ball portion of the blank joining the extension of said main opening at its point of deflection, the forward edges of said openings being slightly concave, and the edges opposed to said forward edges being dissimilar to said concave edges.

7. A blank for the vamp of a moccasin shoe, said blank having a main opening at its rear edge in the shank portion and said opening being extended forwardly and deflected outwardly in the ball portion of the blank, an outwardly extending branch opening in the ball portion of the blank joining the extension of said main opening at its point of deection, the edges of said main opening being slightly curved and relatively dissimilar in outline, one ofthe edges of said branchopening being slightly curved and both edges thereof being relatively dissimilar in outline, whereby when. said edges are joined, said Vamp will be dished and curved seams will be produced.

8. A blank for the vamp of a moccasin shoe, said blank having a main opening at its rear edge in the shank portion and said opening being extended forwardly and deflected outwardly inthe ball portion of the'blank, an outwardly extending branch opening in the ball portion of the blank joining the extension of said main opening at its point of deflection, the edges of said main opening being slightly curved vand relatively dissimilar in outline, one Vof the edges of said branch opening being slightly curved and both edges thereof being relatively dissimilar in outline, whereby when said edges are joined, said varnp will be dished' and curved seams will bel produced, the seam produced by said extension forming a curved line continuous with the main longitudinal seam and the branch seam being disposed at a substantial angle thereto.

' RALPH A. BUNKER. 

